California, Desert and Beyond

A few weeks after coming back to Canada for a rare Christmas visit, we were at a loss for what to do next and were predictably growing impatient with the typical winter weather. Our flights back to Melbourne via Fiji were already booked for a few weeks later in Los Angeles, but we had yet to schedule a departure from our respective hometowns of Montreal and Ottawa. When the idea of making an early departure for the sunshine of California came up we jumped at the chance. We then quickly made the decision to forgo yet another venture into La-La Land in favour of an alternative foray into the dry California interior. The decision made, we reunited in Montreal and bid La Belle Province adieux for Palm Desert, Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley.

Not surprisingly, both of us were genuinely anticipating a rise in the ol’ mercury on our internal thermometers; however, it soon became apparent that this was little more than wishful thinking/hoping of a Californian sun. In fact, it was so cold in the desert that we actually got an apology from the cashier at the local Target; having moved to the desert from Alberta, Canada in the ‘70s, he claimed that this was the coldest it had ever been. Just our luck! Unswayed, we soldiered on and made the rounds of some of the areas most scenic and unique locales.

While in Palm Springs we were able to take in the views from the snow-peaked heights of the San Jacinto Mountains. Our 15-minute ride in the rotating cable car up the 6000 feet (~1800m) to the top offered some spectacular views of the city below. Although we took the last car up for the day (saving some cash in the process), there were still quite a few locals sauntering about in full snowsuits and dragging full-sized toboggans. A pretty average café and bar is situated on in the second floor of the mammoth chalet surrounded by a wrap-around balcony that is dotted with coin-operated telescopes. Looking around, the space was dominated by families digging their plastic forks and spoons into an assortment of putty-coloured, prison-grade entrees. The bar was packed with guys drinking beer and watching American football. Walking trails and nature hikes are usually available; though, due to the time of day and extreme cold we chose to enjoy a cup of coffee and hang out on the balcony before returning to the cable-car for our descent back toward the valley.

We both really enjoyed our walk through Indian Canyons as the day we went was probably the mildest 24 hour stretch we’d experience on the whole trip. Despite being situated in a desert, the icy streams that flow from the San Jacinto Mountains feed into the canyons around the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. This natural irrigation system provides for the lush clusters of fan palms that follow the contours of the water as it meanders its way through the desert, partially hidden below the stony cliffs that have been etched away through centuries of erosion. Within a few meters of the water source the earth is a lush shade of green but when venturing out of the canyons the landscape quickly changes and the vegetation makes a distinct shift towards squat and prickly. We didn’t come across too many other hikers on our unguided walk through the parklands but those we did pass were sweaty and rosy-cheeked. Because we arrived in the late afternoon our trek was limited to a 3-mile trip to a ridge overlooking the desert; however, if we had more time the park offers extensive hikes through its rocky multi-mile network of trails.

Adjacent to Palm Desert is the famed Joshua Tree National Park with some spectacular views of the surrounding desert and several historic sites and walking trails. Getting an early start, we chose to enter the park from the north side and began with a introductory stop over in the Joshua Tree Visitor Centre just off of Twentynine Palms highway. As mentioned previously the weather was cold, so cold in fact that a smile was frozen on our faces anytime we ventured out from the car.

With strong winds and a recorded high of 6 degrees that dipped to 7 below at night, our photos of the sunny desert scenery belie the cold reality. The positive side to this unusual weather was that there were almost no other tourists on the road, giving the place an added sense of inhospitable isolation. Although camping is permitted at many of the spots we visited, not one campervan or tent marred the desolate landscape.  Our itinerary can be followed on the map and began with a trip through the short yet well-marked Hidden Valley.
This oasis was very well concealed until a local rancher named Bill Keys dynamited its entrance open back in the mid ‘30s. Next we visited Keys View (D), a good vantage point to overlook the Salton Sea and desert surrounds. Then we stopped at Skull Rock (E) and spent some time in the Cholla Cactus Garden Trail.  The last stop before returning to Palm Desert was a quick peek at the Salton Sea (F) at the tail end of sunset. Formed by accident in 1905, this once popular tourist destination has been in decline for several decades due to a drop in the amount of water (inflow) that once replenished it.

We shared our sunset view of the lake with dozens of herons, which must have been drawn to the water’s edge by the briny aroma of decaying fish (tilapia – introduced in the ‘50s), an unfortunate consequence of the increased salinity of the sea. Finally, we drove back to our hotel in the dark, finishing the 200-mile loop through Joshua Tree. There is much left yet to be explored and we would be glad to return.